14.11.2024

THE EVOLUTION OF THE BRA

The history of the bra, one of the key components of women's underwear, spans centuries. Garments resembling bras can be worn by women depicted in frescoes from antiquity. However, over time, the functionality of the bra was largely taken over by the corset. By the late 19th century, with the decline of the corset—despised by many for its discomfort a new era in the evolution of lingerie was set in motion.

FROM 1884 TO 1913

FROM 1884 TO 1913

In 1889, Herminie Cadolle introduced the prototype of a bra called "Bien-Être," which, however, still bore a resemblance to the corset.

The transformation began when designer Paul Poiret, in the early 1900s, introduced a completely new style of dresses that did not require accentuating the waistline, thereby eliminating the need for corsets.

In 1913, Mary Phelps Jacob assembled two silk handkerchiefs with ribbons and threads to create a device that supported the bust and remained invisible under clothing. Her idea was a great success, leading to a patent, which she obtained on November 3, 1914, for this early prototype of the modern bra.

FROM 1930 TO 1960

FROM 1930 TO 1960

In the 1930s, the bra began to acquire many of its modern features, including size classifications represented by letters, hook-and-eye closures, and adjustable straps. Advances in textiles-such as stretchable fabrics, vibrant colors, patterns, and various styles-made bras increasingly popular among women.

In the 1950s, fashion designers sought to counteract the post-war depression. Dior unveiled his famous "New Look" collection, and a new Hollywood sex symbol, Marilyn Monroe, emerged. Monroe often wore the iconic pointed bra, solidifying the trend that bras were no longer just functional garments for covering or supporting the bust but also aesthetic accessories that shaped and enhanced allure.

The 1960s brought a shift toward Lycra fabrics, tights, and the celebration of natural, smaller breasts. Bras of this era were designed not to amplify size but to support a more natural silhouette.

In 1967, Anne Bancroft’s lace bra in The Graduate (as Mrs. Robinson) mesmerized not only Dustin Hoffman’s character but also audiences, becoming an unforgettable symbol of the era’s evolving views on lingerie.

BRAS IN THE SOVIET UNION

BRAS IN THE SOVIET UNION

In the post-war Soviet Union, women often had to sew their own bras and underwear or purchase imported items from resellers at exorbitant prices. Lace bras were considered a "bourgeois relic," and Soviet ideology discouraged such "uncharacteristic temptations" for the ideal Soviet woman.

Everything changed, according to legend, when the then-Minister of Culture, Yekaterina Furtseva, declared during a Komsomol conference speech, "Every woman has the right to own a quality bra." Following this, the production of bras and lingerie began in the USSR, and imports from allied socialist countries were introduced.

Soviet lingerie, while still modest compared to Western standards, started to include slightly more refined designs. Many women still recall and praise the high quality of South Yugoslavian lingerie, which became a sought-after symbol of both comfort and elegance during that era.

FROM 1970 TO 1990

FROM 1970 TO 1990

The sexual revolution of the 1970s saw a significant shift in attitudes toward lingerie. Many hippie women rejected underwear and bras altogether, embracing freedom and body positivity.

In the 1980s, lingerie adapted to the era's trends and ideals. The focus shifted toward emphasizing firm, athletic bodies, aligning with the fitness craze of the time. Jane Fonda's aerobics classes became a cultural phenomenon, and women aspired to achieve a toned and sculpted physique. Lingerie designs mirrored this trend, combining functionality with sleek, sporty aesthetics.

Just a few years later, in the 1990s, the emphasis moved to celebrating highly sexualized and often surgically enhanced figures. Icons like Pamela Anderson, with her dramatic curves, epitomized this ideal. Lingerie became bolder and more provocative, with brands like Victoria's Secret setting the tone. The era was marked by extravagant shows featuring the brand's iconic "Angels" and dazzling displays of lingerie adorned with diamonds and other luxurious embellishments.
 

IN THE 2000S

IN THE 2000S

Since the early 2000s, lingerie has been undergoing a process of redefinition, striving to find the balance between functionality and aesthetics something it had largely avoided throughout its history. Traditional standards and norms that had long defined women’s underwear and how it was worn began to fade in favor of more inclusive lingerie that embraces all body types, tastes, and styles.

2009

Lady Gaga made a statement at the MuchMusic Video Awards by wearing a fiery, explosive bra. Immediately, the public began comparing it to Madonna's iconic cone bra, which had been a symbol of bold femininity and sexual empowerment.

2010

In the music video for California Gurls, Katy Perry wore an eye-catching "creamy" bra, once again pushing the boundaries of lingerie as a statement of bold style and fun, aligning with the playful nature of pop culture.

2021

At the Cannes Film Festival red carpet, Bella Hadid stunned audiences with a jaw-dropping outfit that required little more than a choker to leave an unforgettable impact. The daring look exemplified how lingerie, or lingerie-inspired fashion, can take on a central role in redefining sensuality and elegance in modern fashion.

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