20.11.2024
Today, eco-responsible practices have become commonplace across various industries, including fashion and design. However, the journey to this point has been neither quick nor easy, spanning nearly a century and a half. Here's how this evolution has transformed the fashion industry.
When humanity entered the Industrial Revolution, which began in the mid-18th century, eco-responsibility was not even a consideration; progress was the sole priority. Concerns about environmental impact emerged much later, after the world had endured two major wars and was witnessing the terrifying pace of the Cold War and an unprecedented arms race.
In 1961, the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) was founded, followed by the establishment of the Don’t Make a Wave Committee, which later became the globally recognized Greenpeace. The organization's members focused on pressing global issues, such as preserving natural habitats, protecting endangered species, limiting oil extraction, raising awareness about the threats of nuclear weapons, and more.
It might have seemed that fashion and clothing production were unrelated to these serious environmental issues. However, everything is interconnected. Despite two world wars and immense losses, the planet's population tripled. Naturally, not everyone lived under equal social conditions, but the overall progress led to increased consumption and higher demand for goods.
Previously, crafting a single dress required more than a month of manual labor. Now, a factory worker using an electric sewing machine could produce several dozen dresses simultaneously. This remarkable difference sparked a new type of competition: producing more, offering better deals, and selling greater volumes of clothing.
Even luxury fashion houses joined the race. To maintain their status, they began offering leather goods and furs made from the pelts of exotic animals. This, in turn, encouraged poaching to meet the demands of the fashion industry, further exacerbating ecological issues.
The environmentally unfriendly practices of the fashion industry contributed to the creation of PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). PETA has been vocal in exposing cases of cruelty toward animals and their exploitation in clothing production.
Many may recall how PETA activists would disrupt fashion shows by storming the runway and pouring paint over models' outfits, organizing protests, and calling for an end to animal suffering for the sake of fashion. Over time, PETA's ideas gained traction among celebrities, with figures like Paul McCartney, Joaquin Phoenix, Pamela Anderson, and Jennifer Aniston lending their support.
Decades of activism proved to be impactful. Many prominent brands, including Gucci, Guess, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Armani, and others, either voluntarily or under public pressure, eventually stopped using animal fur in their collections.
In addition, leading brands have joined the Save Our Species movement, initiated through a collaboration between the Global Environment Facility (GEF), the World Bank, and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). This initiative aims to engage brands in protecting the animals or plants featured in their logos.
Lacoste was among the first to participate, contributing significantly to the conservation of crocodiles. Alongside these efforts, Lacoste launched limited-edition polo shirts featuring logos of endangered animals. All proceeds from these shirts are donated to organizations dedicated to protecting these species, amplifying the brand's commitment to sustainability and biodiversity.
Recycling has a history spanning different years and even centuries. As far back as 10 centuries ago, Japan practiced paper recycling for reuse. During times of major wars and hardships, the recycling of clothing and furniture played a crucial role in solving practical problems. In the 21st century, recycling has become both a moral choice and essential to combating ecological disasters.
Every year, 100 billion garments are produced worldwide, and unfortunately, more than 60% of these garments end up in landfills within just 12 months. For decades, brands simply ignored this issue, contributing to the growing problem of textile waste.
In 1984, Desigual introduced a shirt made from vintage denim, one of the first examples of clothing recycling in the world. Today, the brand continues to expand its efforts towards sustainable and eco-friendly practices.
The situation has dramatically evolved in recent years. Many clothing brands have joined the movement toward sustainability. Mass-market giants like Zara (and its subsidiaries Stradivarius, PULL&BEAR, Bershka, Oysho, and Massimo Dutti) have begun creating more eco-friendly environments in their stores. Customers can now drop off their old clothes for recycling. These garments are repaired, cleaned, and donated to charity organizations such as the Red Cross and Caritas. Additionally, the Inditex Group has launched the Join Life collection, which adheres to environmental standards in both raw materials and production processes. Clothing with this label can be found in stores like Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti, Zara, Oysho, Bershka, and Pull and Bear. In 2017 alone, 76.3 million garments were produced under this label. Each brand within the group also has its own individual eco-projects. For example, Charles and Keith is known not only for its design but also for its innovative approaches to environmental solutions. The brand now offers a range of products made from recycled materials.
Terranova is another brand that uses recycled materials such as cotton and plastic in its production. In support of waste recycling and environmental conservation, Jules has created a collection made from recycled polyester and fibers. Levi’s has developed a technique called Water<Less, which allows them to produce high-quality jeans while using significantly less water in the process. Since its launch in 2011, the initiative has saved 4.2 billion liters of water, with another 6 billion liters being reused.
In 2021, Calzedonia launched an eco-collection featuring swimwear made from plastic bottles and tights made from recycled nylon. One swimsuit, for example, is made from 7 plastic bottles. Converse has also changed the materials for some of its sneakers, creating the Converse Renew Knit collection. One model, the Chuck Taylor All Star Crater Renew Knit, is made from 75% recycled polyester, with 100% recycled polyester eyelets, a 75% recycled OrthoLite insole, and a color-contrasted sole made entirely from rubber waste generated during the production process.
Geox has partnered with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and plans to achieve zero emissions by 2050, increase the use of renewable energy (solar, wind), completely phase out single-use plastics, and find alternatives. Geox is already using recycled plastics in its production.
Guess was the first brand to introduce eco-friendly jeans made from sustainable materials. Their special production technology uses minimal chemicals, reduces water and electricity consumption, and significantly decreases CO2 emissions in the atmosphere. The collection even includes OFF WATER BLUE technology jeans, where no water is used in the production process.
Finally, learning from Japan’s experience, brands have moved away from plastic packaging, opting for recycled paper hangers. A great example is the Italian brand Carpisa, known for its fashionable handbags, accessories, and luggage. Carpisa has developed alternative packaging methods, including recyclable polybags. They also offer a special collection of luggage made from eco-friendly polycarbonate, which is safe for the environment.
There have been noticeable changes in the cosmetics industry as well. Many brands now produce vegan cosmetics and have stopped testing their products on animals. A great example of this is The Body Shop, which not only abandoned animal testing methods but also advocates for laws against animal testing in various countries.
In addition to vegan ingredients, cosmetic companies are now offering alternatives to purchasing new plastic containers for your favorite eyeshadow. Instead, they encourage customers to refill their containers at a lower cost. For example, The Body Shop at Dalma Garden Mall has installed refill stations where customers can purchase a product once and then return to refill their containers. L'Occitane also offers a similar service. At Dalma's L'Occitane store, customers can bring empty containers and receive a 10% discount on another purchase the same day.
The Fresh Line brand at Dalma Garden Mall follows a fundamental principle of using natural ingredients. Products made from plants, their oils, and other natural components not only provide excellent results for the skin but also do not pollute the environment after use.
Modern technologies allow for these changes to support nature conservation, and the positive example is contagious, as more brands are becoming eco-conscious year by year. On the other hand, it's important to remember that much also depends on the consumer's attitude and approach. Just as humanity's unconscious massive demand led to oversaturation in the fashion industry decades ago, today, our conscious demand will drive companies to spend more on reforms in this sector.