20.11.2024
German photographer Horst P. Horst is rightly considered one of the pioneers of fashion photography. During the 1930s, he collaborated with the French and British editions of Vogue. Even then, he was celebrated as a "master of dramatic lighting." In the studio, Horst meticulously prepared every detail, giving his models precise instructions with no room for improvisation.
One of Horst’s most iconic photographs is the Mainbocher Corset, taken in Vogue's Paris studio. The image features a model wearing a corset designed by New York couturier Main Rousseau Bocher. The model is portrayed with her back turned to the viewer, striking a pose that resembles not a modern woman but an antique marble statue. Horst frequently admired ancient Greek ideals of physical beauty in his work.
In the Mainbocher Corset, Horst's signature use of dense shadows and contrasting light is evident, highlighting every lace and fold of the corset. The photograph reflects his mastery of composition and lighting, enhancing the garment and the model's form.
This particular work holds special significance for Horst himself, as it was the last photograph he took in Paris before the outbreak of World War II. Recalling that moment, Horst said:
"I left the studio at 4 a.m., went home, packed my bags, and caught the 7 a.m. train to Le Havre to board the Normandie liner. While making this photograph, I couldn’t stop thinking about everything I was leaving behind..."
The photograph exists in two versions, Tight and Loose, differing only in the tightness of the corset’s laces.