18.11.2024

THE EVOLUTION OF HIGH HEELS

Since it is not known exactly in which year or by whom heels were first invented, several civilizations simultaneously claim the title of the "homeland" of heels. Heeled shoes existed in Ancient Egypt, Greece, Japan, and Venice. And now, they can be found everywhere.





 

FROM 450 BCE TO THE 16TH CENTURY

FROM 450 BCE TO THE 16TH CENTURY

In Ancient Greece, high-heeled shoes called "kothorni" were worn by actors to make themselves more visible on stage. This solution was presumably suggested by the playwright Aeschylus in 450 BCE.

Japanese geta, wooden-heeled shoes, come in dozens of varieties, with the oldest dating back to the 9th-10th centuries. These shoes were worn by both men and women. One type of geta was worn by geishas, another by priests, and yet another by rice field workers. Notably, the Japanese still wear geta today, maintaining this tradition.

In the 16th century, chopines became very popular in Venice. Women, particularly courtesans, wore heels up to 50 cm high to attract men's attention. It was impossible to walk in such high shoes, so a few attendants were always present to assist the woman.

In 1533, Catherine de' Medici married Henry II of France. Catherine was 14 years old, very thin, and short. Florentine shoemakers had crafted high-heeled shoes for her, which she wore at her wedding, carefully hiding them under her gown.
 

FROM THE 17TH TO THE 18TH CENTURIES

FROM THE 17TH TO THE 18TH CENTURIES

In the 17th century, this type of shoe caught the attention of France's "Sun King," Louis XIV. While some believe Louis wore heels because of his short stature, it is more likely that he simply enjoyed the regal appearance they gave him. Moreover, his shoes featured red-painted heels, making them highly noticeable (long before Christian Louboutin's designs). The king even decreed that no one could wear heels higher than his own.

During the same period, Persian soldiers wore heeled shoes to better grip their saddles while riding. It is believed that this practical use of heels contributed to their spread among European soldiers.

While Louis XIV restricted the wearing of heeled shoes to himself at Versailles, by the 18th century, under the reign of his great-grandson Louis XV, many court women began adopting them. This trend (though the term didn't exist then) was initiated by the king's mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Her outfits and hairstyles were instantly copied at Versailles, and her petite stature led her to wear heeled shoes to appear taller. The style quickly spread among women across Europe, prompting some countries to introduce laws allowing only members of the elite to wear such shoes.

Fashion in France often changed, influenced by political events. The French Revolution (1789–1799) and the subsequent Napoleonic era ushered in simpler styles. Women adopted soft velvet shoes without embellishments, and for many years—even centuries—high-heeled shoes were predominantly associated with brothels. 

THE 20TH CENTURY

THE 20TH CENTURY

The revival of heels took place in the 20th century, when fashion was rapidly developing and changing. In the 1920s, the hemline of dresses became shorter, and shoes took on a more significant place in the wardrobe. Heeled shoes were no longer considered vulgar.

Another revolution occurred in the 1950s when Hollywood's leading "shoemaker," Salvatore Ferragamo, invented the comfortable high heel with a wedge sole.

At the same time in France, Roger Vivier introduced his own version of the high heel for Christian Dior, becoming the only shoemaker allowed by Dior to put his name on the shoes. 

FROM 1998 TO 2004

FROM 1998 TO 2004

From 1998 to 2004, the TV series Sex and the City featured Sarah Jessica Parker's character, Carrie Bradshaw, whose obsession with shoes became one of her defining traits. In nearly every episode, the characters would talk about shoes, and Carrie had an enormous collection. It was no coincidence that her dream man, Mr. Big, proposed to her in an empty closet filled with Manolo Blahnik shoes, symbolizing her love for fashion and luxury. 

FROM 1980's TO 2010's

FROM 1980's TO 2010's

Although Christian Louboutin's shoes had been famous since the 1980s, they reached worldwide fame from the late 1990s through the 2010s. His brand's shoes sold out quickly, songs were written about them, they were copied, and even women painted the soles with red lacquer to mimic the iconic brand.

The COVID-19 pandemic of 2020 tried to put an end to the reign of high heels. Women confined to their homes preferred comfortable slippers. It seemed like this situation would last for a long time, and many magazines predicted a redefinition of the female wardrobe. But humanity is truly "irrepressible." This brief period in our lives made us realize that life is short, and we must enjoy it and make every day a celebration. In 2021, bright clothing began to return to stores, followed by high heels and festive shoes adorned with feathers, stones, and chains. It is no coincidence that one of the trending shoes of 2024 is the classic pointed high heel, and it seems that high heels will never leave a woman's wardrobe.

Versace's Medusa Aevitas pink satin shoes appeared in 2021 and immediately became a trend.

Originally created mostly as part of men's wardrobes, heels gradually transitioned into women's fashion over the centuries. However, men have not yet given up and continue to attempt to bring heels back. More bold individuals, particularly in the arts, are leading the way. Famous actors Jared Leto and Harry Styles, collaborating with Gucci, often wear high heels with their outfits. The famous Ukrainian Kozaky dance troupe proved that men not only can walk in high heels but also dance in them.

Political figures also use the power of heels to appear taller by a few extra centimeters. This is exemplified by Russian President Vladimir Putin, who has been suspected by journalists of using double heels to appear taller, while Chechen leader Kadyrov openly wears military-style Prada high heels. These unisex shoes cost more than 1000€.






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